INCI stands for International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients — the globally standardized naming system for cosmetic ingredients. Since 1998, INCI labelling has been mandatory across the EU, and it is the de-facto standard in the US and most other markets. The list is your single most powerful tool for understanding what you are actually putting on your skin. But you need to know how to read it.
INCI names are not designed for shoppers — they are designed for global consistency. Plant extracts use their Latin botanical names, synthetic ingredients use chemical nomenclature, and everything else follows strict INCI conventions. The payoff: "Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil" means exactly the same thing in Berlin, Boston, and Bangkok.
Ingredients are listed in descending order of concentration. The first five to six ingredients typically make up 80–90% of the product. One important exception: anything below 1% concentration can be listed in any order at the end of the list.
What this means in practice: if a hero ingredient sits at position 18, there is very little of it in the bottle — regardless of what the front of the packaging claims.
| INCI | Source | Feel | Rating | |------|--------|------|--------| | Squalane | Olive / Sugarcane | Light | ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ | | Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride | Coconut | Light | ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ | | Cetyl Alcohol | Plant-based | Medium | ⭐⭐⭐ | | Dimethicone | Synthetic | Light | ⭐⭐⭐ | | Petrolatum | Petroleum | Heavy | ⭐⭐⭐ | | Shea Butter | Natural | Heavy | ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ | | Jojoba Oil | Natural | Medium | ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ |
| INCI | Type | Spectrum | Controversy Level | |------|------|----------|-------------------| | Phenoxyethanol | Synthetic | Broad | Low | | Sodium Benzoate | Natural | Medium | Low | | Potassium Sorbate | Natural | Medium | Low | | Benzyl Alcohol | Natural | Medium | Low (fragrance allergen!) | | Methylparaben | Paraben | Broad | Moderate | | Methylisothiazolinone (MIT) | Synthetic | Broad | High | | Ethylhexylglycerin | Preservative booster | Narrow | Low |
| INCI | Function | Typical Concentration | |------|----------|----------------------| | Niacinamide | Barrier repair, pores | 2–10% | | Retinol | Anti-aging, cell renewal | 0.025–1% | | Ascorbic Acid | Antioxidant, collagen | 10–20% | | Salicylic Acid | Acne, pores | 0.5–2% | | Hyaluronic Acid | Hydration | 0.1–2% | | Panthenol | Healing, soothing | 1–5% | | Ceramide NP/EOP/AP | Skin barrier | 0.5–3% | | Peptides (Palmitoyl etc.) | Anti-aging | 0.001–5% |
Some brands deliberately list their hero ingredient at position one — by renaming the base:
How to spot it: if Aqua/Water is not in first position, the formula is unusual (or it is a water-free product).
Splitting one ingredient into several sub-components so it appears lower on the list:
CITRUS AURANTIUM DULCIS (ORANGE) FRUIT EXTRACT
CITRUS AURANTIUM DULCIS (ORANGE) FLOWER WATER
CITRUS AURANTIUM DULCIS (ORANGE) PEEL OIL
Combined, these would rank much higher.
Plant extracts at position 15–20 with an impressive Latin name — technically present, but in a homeopathic concentration:
... CAMELLIA SINENSIS LEAF EXTRACT (Green Tea)
At position 20, the amount is negligible.
For a fast, free check, try our own [INCI Scanner](/inci-scanner) — paste an ingredient list and get an instant per-ingredient rating.
Absolutely not. Every ingredient has a chemical name. Water = H₂O = Aqua. Vitamin C = Ascorbic Acid. Chemical nomenclature tells you nothing about safety or quality — dose and context do.
Modern short-chain parabens (methyl-, ethylparaben) are approved and well-studied at permitted concentrations. Silicones like dimethicone are non-comedogenic for most people. The real watch-list: MIT preservatives, formaldehyde-releasers, and undisclosed fragrance (Parfum) if you have sensitive skin.
Look for: actives within the first ~10 positions, a sensible preservative system, no ingredient splitting, and claims that match the position of the claimed ingredient on the list.
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