Licorice root has been used in traditional medicine for over 3,000 years — from Ancient Egypt to Traditional Chinese Medicine. But in recent years, this humble root has become one of the most celebrated ingredients in modern skincare, and for good reason.
Packed with over 300 active compounds, licorice root extract offers a unique combination of skin brightening, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant benefits that make it one of the most versatile natural ingredients in dermatology.
This guide covers everything you need to know about licorice root extract in skincare — the science, the benefits, and how to incorporate it into your routine.
Licorice root extract comes from the Glycyrrhiza glabra plant, a perennial herb native to Southern Europe and Asia. The extract used in skincare is typically standardized for its key active compounds:
| Compound | Function | Concentration in Skincare | |----------|----------|--------------------------| | Glabridin | Tyrosinase inhibitor, anti-inflammatory | The most important active | | Glycyrrhizin | Anti-inflammatory, moisturizing | Soothing properties | | Liquiritin | Melanin dispersing | Helps fade existing dark spots | | Isoliquiritin | Antioxidant, brightening | Supports overall radiance | | Stearyl glycyrrhetinate | Anti-inflammatory, barrier repair | Often used in gentle formulations |
Glabridin is the star compound. Research shows it's a potent tyrosinase inhibitor — the enzyme responsible for melanin production. In fact, some studies suggest glabridin is as effective as hydroquinone for skin brightening, without the associated risks.
This is licorice root's most celebrated benefit. Glabridin inhibits tyrosinase activity, reducing melanin production at the source. Meanwhile, liquiritin helps break up and disperse existing melanin clusters, making dark spots appear lighter.
Clinical evidence: A study published in the Journal of Dermatological Treatment found that a topical gel containing licorice extract significantly reduced melasma pigmentation over 4 weeks of use.
Licorice root is particularly effective for:
Glabridin and glycyrrhizin both exhibit strong anti-inflammatory effects. They inhibit the production of inflammatory cytokines and reduce COX-2 enzyme activity — similar to how some NSAIDs work, but topically and without side effects.
This makes licorice root extract excellent for:
Licorice root contains flavonoids that neutralize free radicals — unstable molecules that damage skin cells, accelerate aging, and trigger hyperpigmentation. The antioxidant properties complement sunscreens by providing an additional layer of UV defense.
Research suggests that glabridin can help regulate sebum production. By reducing excess oil and calming inflammation simultaneously, licorice root can be a helpful addition to acne-prone skin routines — especially for those who find traditional acne treatments too harsh.
Glycyrrhizin promotes the production of ceramides and other lipids that make up the skin barrier. A stronger barrier means better moisture retention, less sensitivity, and improved resilience against environmental stressors.
Unlike hydroquinone (which carries risks of ochronosis with long-term use) or high-concentration vitamin C (which can irritate sensitive skin), licorice root is remarkably well-tolerated. It's suitable for virtually all skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
Licorice root extract works best when it remains on the skin for extended periods. Look for:
Most effective skincare products contain licorice root extract at 2–5% concentration. At this range, you get meaningful brightening without irritation.
Licorice root plays well with many other skincare actives. Here are the most effective pairings:
A powerhouse brightening duo. Niacinamide blocks melanin transfer to skin cells while licorice root reduces melanin production. Together, they attack hyperpigmentation from two different angles.
Double the tyrosinase inhibition. Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and glabridin both suppress melanin production through different pathways, making this combination highly effective for stubborn dark spots.
The ultimate soothing combo. Both ingredients reduce inflammation and promote healing. Perfect for sensitive, reactive, or post-procedure skin.
Retinol accelerates cell turnover (bringing pigmented cells to the surface faster) while licorice root prevents new melanin production. Use retinol at night and licorice root in the morning for optimal results.
| Ingredient | Mechanism | Speed | Gentleness | Best For | |-----------|-----------|-------|------------|----------| | Licorice Root | Tyrosinase inhibition + melanin dispersal | Moderate | Very gentle | Sensitive skin, mild hyperpigmentation | | Vitamin C | Tyrosinase inhibition + antioxidant | Moderate | Can irritate | Overall brightening, anti-aging | | Niacinamide | Melanin transfer inhibition | Moderate | Very gentle | All skin types, barrier support | | Kojic Acid | Tyrosinase inhibition | Moderate | Can irritate | Stubborn dark spots | | Hydroquinone | Cytotoxic to melanocytes | Fast | Harsh | Prescription-only, severe cases | | Tranexamic Acid | Plasmin pathway inhibition | Slow-moderate | Gentle | Melasma |
Licorice root occupies a sweet spot: effective enough for visible results, gentle enough for daily use on sensitive skin.
👉 Read our Kojic Acid Guide for another natural brightener →
| Product | Key Ingredients | Price Range | Best For | |---------|----------------|-------------|----------| | [Licorice Root Brightening Serum] | 5% licorice extract + niacinamide | $25–40 | Dark spots, uneven tone | | [Calming Essence with Centella + Licorice] | Licorice + centella asiatica | $20–35 | Sensitive, redness-prone skin | | [Daily Brightening Moisturizer] | Licorice + vitamin C + SPF | $30–50 | Morning routine, all-in-one |
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While licorice root tea and DIY licorice toners are popular on social media, we generally recommend formulated products over homemade preparations:
If you want to try a DIY approach, a simple licorice root toner (steeped licorice root tea, cooled, applied with a cotton pad) is generally safe for most skin types.
Topical licorice root extract is generally considered safe during pregnancy, unlike hydroquinone and some retinoids. However, always consult your dermatologist or OB-GYN before adding new skincare products during pregnancy.
Yes. Unlike some brightening agents that require breaks, licorice root is gentle enough for twice-daily, long-term use.
Most people notice subtle brightening within 2–4 weeks. Visible dark spot reduction typically takes 6–12 weeks of consistent use. For stubborn hyperpigmentation, combine with other brightening ingredients.
No. Licorice root targets excess melanin production. It helps return hyperpigmented areas to your natural skin tone but doesn't lighten beyond that baseline.
They work best together. Vitamin C provides antioxidant protection and deeper tyrosinase inhibition, while licorice root adds anti-inflammatory benefits and melanin dispersion. Using both gives superior results to either alone.
No. Licorice root extract is non-comedogenic and suitable for acne-prone skin. In fact, its anti-inflammatory properties can help calm acne-related redness.
Most licorice root extracts in skincare have a very mild, slightly sweet, earthy scent. It's barely noticeable in formulated products.
Looking for more brightening guides? Check out our Vitamin C Skincare Guide, Kojic Acid Guide, and our Pigmentflecken behandeln Guide (DE).
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