Bakuchiol has been called "the natural retinol" by every beauty brand and influencer on the internet. But does it actually deliver retinol-like results, or is it just clever marketing for another plant extract? The answer, as with most things in skincare, lies in the clinical data.
This guide examines the published research on bakuchiol, compares it head-to-head with retinol, and gives you an honest assessment of where bakuchiol excels — and where it falls short.
Use our free INCI checker to decode any product and see if it contains meaningful amounts of bakuchiol.
Bakuchiol (pronounced bah-KOO-chee-all) is a meroterpene — a natural compound extracted from the seeds and leaves of Psoralea corylifolia (babchi plant), a plant used in Ayurvedic and Chinese medicine for centuries.
In skincare, bakuchiol gained attention after a landmark 2018 study published in the British Journal of Dermatology showed that bakuchiol 0.5% cream produced comparable anti-aging results to retinol 0.5% cream — with significantly less irritation.
Since then, bakuchiol has appeared in hundreds of products, ranging from drugstore to luxury brands, all claiming it is a "natural retinol alternative."
The study that launched a thousand bakuchiol products.
Design: Randomized, double-blind study with 44 volunteers. Bakuchiol 0.5% cream vs. retinol 0.5% cream, applied twice daily for 12 weeks.
Results: | Measure | Bakuchiol 0.5% | Retinol 0.5% | |---------|---------------|-------------| | Wrinkle depth | ↓ Significant improvement | ↓ Significant improvement | | Pigmentation | ↓ Improvement | ↓ Improvement | | Overall photodamage | ↓ Improvement | ↓ Improvement | | Skin firmness | ↑ Improvement | ↑ Improvement | | Scaling/dryness | No increase | ↑ Increased | | Stinging | No increase | ↑ Increased |
Key takeaway: Bakuchiol produced similar improvements in wrinkle depth, pigmentation, and photodamage as retinol, without the scaling and stinging associated with retinol use.
Limitations: Small sample size (44 participants), short duration (12 weeks), and funded by a company that sells bakuchiol. The study was double-blind, but the retinol group experienced more visible side effects, which could have unblinded participants.
This in vitro study showed that bakuchiol modulates gene expression in a pattern similar to retinol:
This was the first mechanistic evidence that bakuchiol might work through retinoid-like pathways — though it does not bind directly to retinoic acid receptors like retinol does.
A smaller study found that bakuchiol gel (applied twice daily for 8 weeks) reduced acne lesions and improved overall skin appearance. The anti-inflammatory properties of bakuchiol were identified as the primary mechanism.
Bakuchiol has promising but limited clinical evidence. The number of published human trials can be counted on one hand, and most have small sample sizes. Retinol, by contrast, has decades of research and hundreds of clinical trials.
What we can say with confidence:
| Factor | Bakuchiol | Retinol | |--------|-----------|---------| | Category | Meroterpene (plant compound) | Retinoid (Vitamin A derivative) | | Mechanism | Retinoid-like gene modulation | Converts to retinoic acid | | Anti-aging efficacy | Moderate (less data) | Strong (extensive data) | | Irritation | Minimal | Common (redness, peeling, dryness) | | Sensitivity to light | None | Degraded by UV light | | Pregnancy safety | Likely safe (limited data) | Not recommended | | Time to results | 8–12 weeks | 4–12 weeks | | Available concentrations | 0.5–2% | 0.025–1% (OTC) | | Comedogenic | No | No | | Long-term data | Very limited | Decades of data | | Cost | Moderate to high | Low to high |
Yes. Bakuchiol and retinol work through different pathways and do not interfere with each other. In fact, combining them may offer the best of both worlds:
How to combine them:
There is even emerging evidence that bakuchiol may buffer retinol irritation when used together, though more research is needed to confirm this effect.
For a deeper dive into retinol, see our complete Retinol Guide.
Based on the limited clinical data, bakuchiol at 0.5% produces similar visible improvements in wrinkle depth and pigmentation as retinol at 0.5% over 12 weeks. However, retinol has a much larger evidence base and stronger prescription options available. Bakuchiol is a good alternative for sensitive skin, but it is not a 1:1 retinol replacement for everyone.
Bakuchiol is not a retinoid and is plant-derived, making it a more conservative choice during pregnancy than retinol. However, formal safety studies during pregnancy are limited. Always consult your OB-GYN before starting any new skincare active during pregnancy.
No. Unlike retinol, bakuchiol does not accelerate cell turnover enough to cause a purge period. Any initial breakouts are more likely due to the formulation base (e.g., squalane, other oils) rather than the bakuchiol itself.
Most clinical studies used 0.5% bakuchiol. Products range from 0.5% to 2.5%. Start with 0.5–1% and adjust based on results. Higher concentrations are not necessarily better — the evidence base is strongest at 0.5%.
No. Tretinoin (prescription retinoic acid) is the most proven topical anti-aging treatment in existence. Bakuchiol cannot match its potency. If you can tolerate tretinoin and have access to it, it remains the gold standard.
Bakuchiol is extracted from a specific plant (Psoralea corylifolia) and is more expensive to source and purify than synthetic retinol. The marketing premium ("natural retinol alternative") also contributes to higher prices. The Ordinary's bakuchiol serum offers the best price-to-performance ratio.
Bakuchiol is not just marketing hype — it has real clinical data supporting its anti-aging effects, and it is genuinely better tolerated than retinol. But it is also not a miracle ingredient that renders retinol obsolete.
Choose bakuchiol if: You have sensitive skin, are pregnant, cannot tolerate retinol after proper introduction, or want a gentle daytime anti-aging active.
Choose retinol if: You want the most evidence-based anti-aging treatment, are treating acne, or have access to prescription retinoids.
Best approach: Use both. Bakuchiol morning + retinol evening gives you comprehensive anti-aging coverage with minimal irritation.
Combine either option with vitamin C for antioxidant protection, ceramides for barrier support, and always — always — wear sunscreen.
Check your products with our INCI Decoder to see exactly what you are putting on your skin.
Disclaimer: This article contains affiliate links. If you purchase through these links, we may earn a small commission at no additional cost to you. All product recommendations are based on ingredient analysis and published research.
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